An uneventful flight on a really old Vietnam Airlines plane took me from Hanoi to Danang and my prearranged car took me to my booked guesthouse in Hoi An. On this trip I'm starting to shed my compulsion to do things the hard way. Sure its not 5 star and private drivers, I don't want to insulate myself too much, but its good for the equalibrium! My homestay, a guesthouse that Mrs Nhung and her extended family run and live in on An Hoi islet was lovely. And the location was perfect, 5 minutes on foot to the Old Town and around the corner from the late night backpacker bars that have multiplied since my last visit. Old Town is still like being in a movie set though all the shops selling the same same tourist tat is a bit depressing. But lovely restaurants, cafes and the occasional unique shop are still there too thankfully. My favourite is Reaching Out which employes people with disabilities who make the most exquisite jewelry and homewares. They also run a gorgeous tea shop staffed by deaf women.
My four days passed with many coffees, book in hand. And a run of shopping on my last day. But the highlight was a street food tour I did. Phuoc, who also runs cooking classes (which are run by every second restaurant in Hoi An it seems) to diversify runs Coconut Tours. For 3 1/2 hours Phuoc lead me through the backstreets of Hoi An tasting the most amazing dishes, introducing me to the vendors and their specialities. There were honestly too many to list without boring you dear reader but suffice to say I ticked many of my 'want to try' boxes while some dishes were completely new to me. Highlights were duck congee with blood pudding and then river snails, which I failed dismally to suck from their shells much to the amusement of the school kids around me. Apparently its a popular after school snack. Certainly more exotic than the cereal and 2 minute noodles of my childhood! Phuoc tried to talk me into trying duck embryo but I demurred. I had to laugh when he admitted he doesn't like them either! Honestly, if you find yourself in Hoi An, do this tour.
The heat of the first week of the trip dissipated into rain about which I'm not sad - it really cools things down. So all activites took place between showers. I did get on a bike and headed to the beach but the weather is such the waves are fierce and the beach damp and closed to swimming. But the view is interesting, the sea and the sky are the same colour and they blend so it's hard to make out the horizon. (Not necessarily in this picture but on the bus ride from Hoi An to Hue I experienced it :-)
Other than that, the discovery of a wine bar selling dry French Rose was the height of excitement for me in Hoi An! And it was nice to escape the insanity of Hanoi. Next stop Hue.
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