Monday, October 20, 2014

Loving Hue

Ah, crappy backpacker buses. I'd almost forgotten them. Until I moved on from Hoi An to Hue. Leg room that even I found painful and a pitiful gust of warm air masquerading as air conditioning. But it got me there, through rather than over the Hai Van Pass in a tunnel so long I started nervously eyeing the emergency exits cut into the mountain. But daylight came as did eventually our arrival into Hue. Smack into the middle of backpacker row. Last trip I visited Hue twice, once after crossing over from Laos and again with D after Tet in Hoi An. Then, as I did now I stayed in an alleyway of cheap hotels closer to the bridge. In fact I stayed at the same hotel, Sunny's though the difference being they'd knocked down the front and rebuilt it with the older rooms surviving behind. I scored a $10 room in the new building with a balcony overlooking the alley where I sat and watched the world go by. My first day felt like a greatest hits album, hitting the places and experiences I'd had before. A fried egg baguette at Cafe on Thru Wheels, Indian for dinner at Omar's around the corner, a beer at Pallets a cute little bar a few doors up and bun bo hue for breakfast from the lady who sets up at the top of the alley in the morning. But I then explored more and can honestly say I really love Hue. Its not all that touristy, in fact seems quite reluctant to fully embrace tourism and it's a place that takes some exploring to uncover its charms. For me its the food and the history.

I started my first full day on the most uncomfortable single speed bike in South East Asia - I was in agony after 2 hours but I packed lots into it. On my to do list was riding around the citadel that surrounds the Imperial Palace. I took the first gate and turned right following the outer wall which gave way to waterways and ponds, glimpsing the ancient next to the new and the bustle of daily life. I then headed out and rode 3 kms to the Thein Mu pagoda which overlooks the Perfume River. The pagoda itself is kinda cool but as always it's the unexpected that makes the biggest impression. In a small chapel (or whatever the Buddhist equivalent is) a ceremony was taking place and I stood transfixed by the beautiful, melodic chanting and singing of the monks. At the back of the complex is another monument of some sort but I could see some sort a view behind the glade of pine trees and outer wall. As I peered over I was greeted with the sight of a cemetary stretching into the distance.

Later I would ride through it before linking back up with the main road. I had just enough energy to get back to town for provisions at the supermarket before collapsing for a bit back in my room! Later I had another wander and eventually found a food stall I'd been told about that served banh ep. Its a rice, egg and mango crepe topped with greens and dipped into a firey chilli dipping sauce. The crepes kept coming until I signaled I'd had enough. And the price of this deliciousness? 10,000 dong - 60 cents!
I also reaquainted myself with the local beer, Huda, my favourite Vietnamese beer. The next day I'd booked an afternoon tour out to the emperor tombs, too far to ride so I mini bussed it with a bunch of day trippers. We visited 3 and they were all different from each other and facinating in their own ways. Minh Mang was emperor 1820-40 and his 28 hectare tomb complex was surrounded by lakes and forest with the various gates and temples in a line down the middle. The most beautiful part was a pleasure garden he had constructed during his reign. The complex in in good condition after restoration.
Next was Khai Dinh, the puppet emperor of the French who's tomb is a moment as much to concrete as a king the previous emperor was deposed and exiled to La Reunion). But it's quite beautiful in its decorative monochrome. Next was the obligatory visit to a "craft village" to see incense being made (and sold to tourists).
And then Tu Duc, I think my favorite of the three and the one I wish I'd had more time at. It's a big, rambling complex and very run down though it is being restored. Then it was off to the river for a cruise in a boat with dragons on the front (I hesitate to actually call it a dragon boat) which was very pleasant.
All that remained of my 2 days was another fab food experience before beer and bed in rediness for the train to Danang the next day. All regions and cities in Vietnam have their own speciality dishes and one of Hue's is Com Hen - rice with baby clams. I found a popular restaurant in a street not far from the hotel (guided by the interwebs) and sat down to the slight confusion of the staff who relaxed when they saw how much I enjoyed it. Most noodle and rice dishes here a a complex mix of protein, herb, vegetable and sauces. Com hen had rice and clams sure but also crunchy rice crackers (or possibly fried pork skin - not sure) and herbs and topped with chilli. Mix thoroughly and enjoy. The accompanying clam soup/stock I didn't like quite so much but the pork paste steamed in banana leaves to make a sort of sausage/luncheon meat I did like. And again astonishingly cheap at $1.80.
I think Hue is my favourite place in Vietnam which I know sounds like a big call, but I like that you have to explore to get the most out of it. Next stop Danang, somewhere I have only passed through previously.

 

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