Only poor people and stupid tourists walk in HCMC

But how else do you get to experience the traffic? Sure, you could pick a curbside seat in a cafe like I did my first night and watch it with a beer in hand rather than cross it. Or you could choose to get out and about in the morning peak hour. This is the time footpaths which, for much of the day are moto parks, become secondary roads with the speed to match. You haven't lived until you play unavoidable chicken with a mob of oncoming Honda Dreams. So yes, I have mixed feeling about HCMC! Its doesn't help the traffic situation that some of the main thouroughfares in District 1 are building sites for the underground railway that will be finished in around a decade.

But there is still plenty to like. The 30c bus ride from the airport for one - cop that Skybus. Not staying in Pham Ngu Lau and instead being within spitting distance of the Rex Hotel. Seriously, backpacker central is even more sleazy and run down than I remember. I'm sure it gives the Khao San Road a run for its money! The Fine Arts Museum is pretty good. Likewise heading down to Cholon in District 5 and checking out the Ben Tre market and the Chinese temples in the surrounding streets. That was bus no. 1 - once you get a map the HCMC bus system is pretty good (and cheap).

But I do exasperate the moto taxi drivers with my constant refusals of thier services. I really do prefer walking and looking with no particular destination in mind. You do end up bathing in your own sweat but that's Asia! I find Vietnam's architecture facinating. From fading colonial buildings to modernist concrete apartment blocks you just have to look up and around corners and down alleyways. And the emerging cafe scene is also fabulous in its aesthetics. They've embraced industrial chic with old sewing machine tables to rest your coffee on and decorated with old typewriters, radios, window grills and doors. And they're usually upstairs in apartment blocks taking you down alleys and up anonymous stairs until you reach them. There were two such cafes in the same alley as my hotel.

And even though I didn't do a street food tour (ran out of money!) I did eat well. On my first night I had Japanese! There was a sushi joint, a proper, not out of place in Tokyo sushi joint in you guessed it, the same alley as my hotel. I blissed out on tempura don and miso. Is there a more comforting combination than miso and rice? (Probably. But its a happy place for me!) I ate many banh mi and tried bo bittet - minute steak and egg served sizzling with pate and meatball for good measure and a roll to mop up the juices. Pretty satisfying and only $3.50.

I drank lots of black coffee on ice served from the back of a bike. I also ate a few times at L'Usine, a hip shop come cafe which is straight out of Fitzroy - actually Fitzroy wishes it could be this good. Is the sort of upmarket cafe that is popping up all over Asia - evolving from the cheap noodle dishes for Western palates and beer joints to a haven for flashpackers (and expats) wanting a slice of home. And in my case wine - 2 for 1 on Vermtino before 8pm. Sweet!

Apologies if this post is a bit disjointed. But that how the last days of my trips always seem to roll. Also I'm finishing this post at klia2 enroute home and I've been feeling unwell all day (most unusual for me) - so make of it what you will. Overall I enjoyed Vietnam the second time - if only to cross more food off my to try list! And its so variable - you can get the backpacker vibe in Hue or go totally upmarket in HCMC. It certainly makes things interesting. So, signing off until the next adventure which who knows, might not be Asia! H

Not loving Danang

In Danang I cracked it and did what I always think I'll do and then talk myself out of - book into an expensive hotel and hang around in a bathrobe for a day! But to begin at the beginning. I caught the train from Hue to Danang. Its the third time now I've done this journey and I love it every time. The train goes over the Hai Van Pass along and above coastline untouched by any sort of development - not even a beach hut. It was raining which added to the magic! I'm such a sucker for a view.

 

We rolled into Danang earlier than expected and I got lost looking for my accommodation. Now why I decided to book into a private room in a hostel (the only one in Danang no less) is beyond me. I stayed in some great ones in Bangkok but the hostel scene is small in Vietnam. And I paid upfront for 2 nights. And the reason? Yet another food tour run by the owners of the hostel. The room was crappy but the food tour amazing and totally worth doing. We went to four places and tried Danang's specialities. First was bun thit nong - noodles and grilled pork which is eaten all over and some fantastic beef in lot leaves. Next was the place where I tried the most 'new to me' dishes. Mi Quang, another noodle dish and particular to the region. Its pretty good stuff. I tried steamed fermented pork sausage - quite sour and not to my taste. Nor was the corn drink we also tried (essentially a corn milkshake in a bottle) but I was glad I did. My list of odd things eaten had expanded on this trip! But the best was for next - banh xeo. Again banh xeo is found all over but this very famous restaurant has a secret weapon - the dipping sauce. To make, take a rice paper sheet, add a bit of pancake, add greens, then grilled pork - roll and dip. Taste sensation! Desert was a chunky fruit salad drink which included avocado in the melange. So back to the hostel and an earlyish night. Though I was in a hostel I didn't really meet anyone - I've been finding travellers here to be an unfriendly bunch, too busy buried in their electronic devices to have an actual conversation. Or maybe I'm old and uncool. My journal writing certainly raises eyebrows!

 

And this is the point at which I cracked it. The bed. More specifically the matress. The floor, hell, a concrete slab would have been more comfortable. And I made the mistake when checking out to mention this to the owner (in my bumbling, can't tell a lie way) so it was no surprise I did not get a refund for the unstayed night (but annoying). So I headed to the riverfront to an upmarket hotel and got a room in the 13th floor with a view of the Dragon Bridge. And the afore mentioned bathrobe time took place.

I did manage to visit two museums in Danang. The most famous the the Cham Museum which is widely known and advertised. So with high expectations I paid my 40,000 dong and headed in. Worst. Museum. Ever. And I've seen some doozies in the region but at least they had charm. This was just contemptable. Priceless artifacts concreted into the walls and whitewashed badly, open air, very little interpretation and an air of neglect. Awful.

Sigh!

Less visited is the Museum of Danang. A little neglected to be sure but at least some attempt as labeling and interpretation was made. Though I wasn't sure whether to laugh or be shocked by the use of craft shop googly eyes on mounted specimens...

Makes him look friendly doesn't it?

So I didn't really jive on Danang but I didn't get to the beach, or out of the city. I really just wandered. And when half the streets are being dug up to lay cable it colours your perspective somewhat. Next and final stop - Ho Chi Minh City.

Corn drink - not traditional, part of Danang's ongoing sense of invention when it come to food apparently. Appeared a couple of years ago. Will not be revisiting.

Loving Hue

Ah, crappy backpacker buses. I'd almost forgotten them. Until I moved on from Hoi An to Hue. Leg room that even I found painful and a pitiful gust of warm air masquerading as air conditioning. But it got me there, through rather than over the Hai Van Pass in a tunnel so long I started nervously eyeing the emergency exits cut into the mountain. But daylight came as did eventually our arrival into Hue. Smack into the middle of backpacker row. Last trip I visited Hue twice, once after crossing over from Laos and again with D after Tet in Hoi An. Then, as I did now I stayed in an alleyway of cheap hotels closer to the bridge. In fact I stayed at the same hotel, Sunny's though the difference being they'd knocked down the front and rebuilt it with the older rooms surviving behind. I scored a $10 room in the new building with a balcony overlooking the alley where I sat and watched the world go by. My first day felt like a greatest hits album, hitting the places and experiences I'd had before. A fried egg baguette at Cafe on Thru Wheels, Indian for dinner at Omar's around the corner, a beer at Pallets a cute little bar a few doors up and bun bo hue for breakfast from the lady who sets up at the top of the alley in the morning. But I then explored more and can honestly say I really love Hue. Its not all that touristy, in fact seems quite reluctant to fully embrace tourism and it's a place that takes some exploring to uncover its charms. For me its the food and the history.

I started my first full day on the most uncomfortable single speed bike in South East Asia - I was in agony after 2 hours but I packed lots into it. On my to do list was riding around the citadel that surrounds the Imperial Palace. I took the first gate and turned right following the outer wall which gave way to waterways and ponds, glimpsing the ancient next to the new and the bustle of daily life. I then headed out and rode 3 kms to the Thein Mu pagoda which overlooks the Perfume River. The pagoda itself is kinda cool but as always it's the unexpected that makes the biggest impression. In a small chapel (or whatever the Buddhist equivalent is) a ceremony was taking place and I stood transfixed by the beautiful, melodic chanting and singing of the monks. At the back of the complex is another monument of some sort but I could see some sort a view behind the glade of pine trees and outer wall. As I peered over I was greeted with the sight of a cemetary stretching into the distance.

Later I would ride through it before linking back up with the main road. I had just enough energy to get back to town for provisions at the supermarket before collapsing for a bit back in my room! Later I had another wander and eventually found a food stall I'd been told about that served banh ep. Its a rice, egg and mango crepe topped with greens and dipped into a firey chilli dipping sauce. The crepes kept coming until I signaled I'd had enough. And the price of this deliciousness? 10,000 dong - 60 cents!

I also reaquainted myself with the local beer, Huda, my favourite Vietnamese beer. The next day I'd booked an afternoon tour out to the emperor tombs, too far to ride so I mini bussed it with a bunch of day trippers. We visited 3 and they were all different from each other and facinating in their own ways. Minh Mang was emperor 1820-40 and his 28 hectare tomb complex was surrounded by lakes and forest with the various gates and temples in a line down the middle. The most beautiful part was a pleasure garden he had constructed during his reign. The complex in in good condition after restoration.

Next was Khai Dinh, the puppet emperor of the French who's tomb is a moment as much to concrete as a king the previous emperor was deposed and exiled to La Reunion). But it's quite beautiful in its decorative monochrome. Next was the obligatory visit to a "craft village" to see incense being made (and sold to tourists).

And then Tu Duc, I think my favorite of the three and the one I wish I'd had more time at. It's a big, rambling complex and very run down though it is being restored. Then it was off to the river for a cruise in a boat with dragons on the front (I hesitate to actually call it a dragon boat) which was very pleasant.

All that remained of my 2 days was another fab food experience before beer and bed in rediness for the train to Danang the next day. All regions and cities in Vietnam have their own speciality dishes and one of Hue's is Com Hen - rice with baby clams. I found a popular restaurant in a street not far from the hotel (guided by the interwebs) and sat down to the slight confusion of the staff who relaxed when they saw how much I enjoyed it. Most noodle and rice dishes here a a complex mix of protein, herb, vegetable and sauces. Com hen had rice and clams sure but also crunchy rice crackers (or possibly fried pork skin - not sure) and herbs and topped with chilli. Mix thoroughly and enjoy. The accompanying clam soup/stock I didn't like quite so much but the pork paste steamed in banana leaves to make a sort of sausage/luncheon meat I did like. And again astonishingly cheap at $1.80.

I think Hue is my favourite place in Vietnam which I know sounds like a big call, but I like that you have to explore to get the most out of it. Next stop Danang, somewhere I have only passed through previously.

 

Wine time in Hoi An

An uneventful flight on a really old Vietnam Airlines plane took me from Hanoi to Danang and my prearranged car took me to my booked guesthouse in Hoi An. On this trip I'm starting to shed my compulsion to do things the hard way. Sure its not 5 star and private drivers, I don't want to insulate myself too much, but its good for the equalibrium! My homestay, a guesthouse that Mrs Nhung and her extended family run and live in on An Hoi islet was lovely. And the location was perfect, 5 minutes on foot to the Old Town and around the corner from the late night backpacker bars that have multiplied since my last visit. Old Town is still like being in a movie set though all the shops selling the same same tourist tat is a bit depressing. But lovely restaurants, cafes and the occasional unique shop are still there too thankfully. My favourite is Reaching Out which employes people with disabilities who make the most exquisite jewelry and homewares. They also run a gorgeous tea shop staffed by deaf women.

 

My four days passed with many coffees, book in hand. And a run of shopping on my last day. But the highlight was a street food tour I did. Phuoc, who also runs cooking classes (which are run by every second restaurant in Hoi An it seems) to diversify runs Coconut Tours. For 3 1/2 hours Phuoc lead me through the backstreets of Hoi An tasting the most amazing dishes, introducing me to the vendors and their specialities. There were honestly too many to list without boring you dear reader but suffice to say I ticked many of my 'want to try' boxes while some dishes were completely new to me. Highlights were duck congee with blood pudding and then river snails, which I failed dismally to suck from their shells much to the amusement of the school kids around me. Apparently its a popular after school snack. Certainly more exotic than the cereal and 2 minute noodles of my childhood! Phuoc tried to talk me into trying duck embryo but I demurred. I had to laugh when he admitted he doesn't like them either! Honestly, if you find yourself in Hoi An, do this tour.

Duck congee

The snails are on the left covered in chili and spring onion. The red things in the foreground are dried beef wrapped in rice paper then grilled.

 

The heat of the first week of the trip dissipated into rain about which I'm not sad - it really cools things down. So all activites took place between showers. I did get on a bike and headed to the beach but the weather is such the waves are fierce and the beach damp and closed to swimming. But the view is interesting, the sea and the sky are the same colour and they blend so it's hard to make out the horizon. (Not necessarily in this picture but on the bus ride from Hoi An to Hue I experienced it :-)

 

Other than that, the discovery of a wine bar selling dry French Rose was the height of excitement for me in Hoi An! And it was nice to escape the insanity of Hanoi. Next stop Hue.

 

 

Hanging in Hanoi

I arrived in Hanoi after an uneventful series of flights from home on Air Asia, purveyor of cheap flights to my favourite places. Its the first time I'd flown them and to be honest they're just like Jetstar, although slightly not as good. But cheap is cheap and if that means a few more coffees with condensed milk so be it. Another new experience, an overnight stay at an airport. As Douglas Adams once wrote "it can hardly be a coincidence that no language on earth has produced the expression 'as pretty as an airport'". But what, I hear you cry, about Changi, Singapore, Dubai? Its true, klia2 is shiny, and full of shops and places to sit. But at the end of the day like any other airport, it's full of exhausted people in limbo between where they've been and where they're going, unattracted by the jumbo bags of Hersheys chocolates and shiny rows of perfume. Even duty free is a tease as invariably the bar its shut being 2 in the morning or there isn't one this side of immigration anyway. And as for my no frills Tune Hotel? Let's put it this way - how hard is it to provide a toothbrush (which even my hotel in Hanoi for which I'm paying much less can manage) and walls that aren't paper thin? Mike drop - airport rant over.

Home sweet home - for a night

So to Hanoi. And the most complained about part - getting from the airport. Its is no exaggeration that everyone is trying to rip you off and there is no set or even roughly agreed on price. So I did the only sensible thing i could - attached myself to a couple from Queensland who'd booked their transfer and rode into the Old Quarter with them! The kindness of strangers. And me taking advantage. In the end I had booked a hotel if only to give the tour i was going on the next day somewhere to pick me up. I'm in a nice room 3 floors above the street noise with AC and cable TV for $27 a night. I stayed in this area, near the cathedral last time i was here and not much as changed. Though the dodgy hotel i stayed in last time has gone, replaced by a boutique one. It is much quieter than in the northern part of the old town above the lake. As I promised there has been a fair amount of time spent sitting, reading and drinking coffee with condensed milk. On my second day I did a street food tour I read about on Travelfish. Its was fantastic. Tu the lovely guide had us try many delicious things, none of which I'd had before either. There was crab noodle soup, a dry version of pho called pho tiu, fried sweet potato and prawn cakes, young green glutenous rice sweets and egg coffee. But the highlight for me was getting to try chicken cooked with medical herbs in a beer can. I'd read about it before and Luke Nguyen covered it in his show. And here it is:

Tastes like chicken

Its does taste ok - the chicken is moist. It's stuffed with bitter greens and then dipped in chilli, lime and salt. Its really needs to be. But honestly its not something i'd be compelled to eat again! Tu has also emailed with more suggestions for eating in Hanoi as well as the other cities I'll be going to.

I have professed a love for Hanoi many times but i've got to say it does wear you down. And the main reason is the traffic. Its beyond the madness I remember from last time, careering into insanity. I have spent a lot of time finding rooftops and cafes trying to escape. I'm still good at crossing the road but I've been surprised on the so called footpath once or twice. Sometimes Hanoi feels like a giant motor scooter park with a hint of road and footpath! But to what I've been doing. I spent an interesting morning doing a self guided tour of 1930's architecture in the French Quarter I found online. It took me to a part of town into which I don't think many tourists venture into judging by the curious looks i got.

I visited the Women's Museum which was facinating. I don't know of many museums of its kind and it was a really well put together insight into the life of women in Vietnam. The most interesting sections were on women's contributions to the French and American wars and a small display and film about street vendors. These are the women you see selling baskets of goods on bikes and poles. Most of them are from the country trying to make enough money for their families. One woman's husband only earns $60 a year so she works in Hanoi to keep them from starving. And here I was having spent $60 on a ring the day before. Tourists drop more money on a single meal than these women earn in a week.

One of my other favourite places has been the Citadel. When I was last here it was still a functioning military area but recently it has been awarded World Heritage status due to its archaeology that dates back to before the founding of Hanoi. It was mostly razed to the ground by the French but a few gates survive as well as some French era buildings which now house objects from the digs. And in the early morning it's a quiet, cool place to wander. One whole section is still an active dig covered by massive roofs. But I think my favourite part was the 1960's period military command bunker.

No fighting in the war room!

I tried and failed to find B52 lake, the remenants of a downed bomber in the alleys near the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. It wasn't a total loss, it was facinating wandering the alleys seeing people go about their lives. And I stocked up on books having finished my first two in a matter of days. I've wandered and looked in wonder, eaten lots of yummy things and am trying to limit myself to two coffees a day! I'm off to Hoi An next to do more wandering, reading, eating and drinking. Until next time.