Coroba - it's all about the architecture

After a fast train from Madrid we arrived in Cordoba just before lunchtime and quickly got settled into another good flat located two streets from the Mezquita. The first port of call was the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos which is famous for its beautiful water gardens. Like so many of the architectural gems of the south of Spain, the Muslims built it in the 8th centrury over the original Visigothic settlement and after the Reconquista it was used by the Catholic monarchs. Today there was a long line of tourists waiting to get in before it closed at 2.30. And in that it was not open the next day (being Monday) I made sure I got to see it. And very glad I was about it too. We started in the gardens which in my opinion are the best part. They are absolutely beautiful - long pools of water surrounded by formal, shady gardens with roses, pomegranates, herbs and conifers.

The interior of the buildings were not very exciting but the view from the ramparts and towers was worth the climb. And I got a great view of the Roman bridge - and for all you Game of Thrones fans, it was used as the Bridge of Volantis in the last series.

After lots of tapas and snacks in Madrid we finally had our first proper meal - albeit at 10pm. Our hosts gave us lots of suggestions for bars and restaurants and this one, called La Boca did fusion food (eg. Thai noodles with local pork) and was delicious. The it was off to sleep before getting up early the next day for the Mezquita. The Meqzuita has free entry from 8.30am until about 9.30 before you get kicked out so the faithful can get in a service before the paid entry starts. And you share it with other early bird tourists, the cleaners and the practicing organist. My first impression was not one of wonder, but of confusion. Moorish arches but Catholic iconography everywhere. It just seemed a nonsensical jumble. I was however awed by the mhirab, the focal point of the mosque which has the most exquisite mosaics.

We then went walking - we did a lot of walking - in the quiet back streets. We crossed the river for a view of the Mezquita and then down came the rain! We hightailed it back to the flat to dry off and wait for the rain to ease. We'd decided to buy tickets for the night tour of the Mezquita so we wandered and ate and drank until it was time for the tour. I'm so glad we decided to do so. Far from the twee sound and light show it had the potential to be, it really illustrated the wonder and majesty of the building. First we sat through a well produced introductory video (though it did start with "Since the dawn of time man has..." etc which I find a bit hyperbolic) and then we were lead through the site chronologically and the relevant sections were lit up. The mosque was extended twice and then in the 17th century a Baroque church was installed in the middle. We had better access to the church than in the morning so the change in the architecture was much more marked. Amazing! But our short visit drew to a close and it was up and off to Seville for more history and architecture.